Aniline leather, by its nature, is dyed through and through without an opaque surface coating, making its color vulnerable to:
- UV fading from sunlight exposure.
- Abrasion wear from regular use.
- Staining or uneven discoloration from paint, ink, body oils, grease, and sweat.
- Previous improper cleaning that may strip dyestuff from the surface.
Re-dyeing restores:
- The depth and richness of color that has faded or worn.
- The evenness of appearance, masking blemishes and stains.
- The natural aniline character, allowing light to penetrate and reflect through the dye, preserving that signature transparent look unique to aniline leather.
Why is the leather structure's integrity not seen as important as appearance?- It’s a common misconception in the leather care industry to prioritize appearance over structure.
- Many refinishing processes focus on cosmetic results—making the leather look new—while overlooking:
- Internal fatliquor content that determines softness, strength, and flexibility.
- pH balance crucial for preventing deterioration (such as cracking, stiffness or dry rotting).
- Ionic bonding integrity between leather fibers and their tannins/fatliquor.
- While appearance matters (hence the re-dyeing and seal with a gloss topcoat), the integrity of the leather’s structure is fundamental to long-term performance and preservation.
- This is why the Leather Doctor system emphasizes hydrating and fatliquoring alongside refinishing—restoring what the leather needs internally from dry rotting to suppleness before beautifying it externally.
- Leather Doctor’s system is built on tannery science principles that recognize leather as a living material, even after processing.
- The key reasons for a holistic, scientific approach are:
- Leather is amphoteric (pH sensitive) — if its pH balance is disturbed (e.g. by sweat, alkaline cleaners), it weakens structurally.
- Fatliquor loss leads to stiffness, cracking, weakness and dry rotting — merely covering damage with dye ignores the root cause of deterioration.
- True restoration begins at the fiber level — replenishing the original fat, oil, and moisture content as done in the tannery.
- Scientific sequencing ensures compatibility and long-term results — each product prepares the leather for the next step (e.g. cleaning neutralizes pH and residue before softening and refinishing).
- This tannery-aligned system ensures leather is not just cosmetically improved, but structurally rejuvenated, preserved, and protected for the future.
1. Cleaning System (3 products)
- Degreaser 2.2 – Eliminates body oil, grease, sweat.
- Rinse 3.0 – Rinse conditioning off degreasing residues.
- Acidifier 2.0 – Balances pH, stabilizes structure to a healthy, squeaky feel.
2. Dye Staining , Hydrating, and Softening System (3 products)
- Dye 21 – Reactivates and enriches natural color.
- Hydrator 3.3 – Rehydrates and relaxes leather fibers.
- Fatliquor 5.0 – Restores fats and oils for suppleness and tensile strength.
3. Priming, Coat Dyeing and Top Coating System (3 products)
- Primer 73 – Primes for adhesion.
- Dye 76 – Applies fresh surface dye for uniform coverage.
- Gloss 76 – Seals with a durable, vibrant gloss topcoat.
4. Conditioning System (1 product)
- Conditioner B – Imparts a buttery feel, resists soiling, reduces friction wear.
Available Fill Sizes: 4oz / 8oz / 16oz concentrates
(Dilution required using distilled water)
Required Water Per Kit Size:
✅ 4oz fill → 792 g (0.9 quart)
✅ 8oz fill → 1583 g (1.8 quarts)
✅ 16oz fill → 3166 g (3.5 quarts)
Shake thoroughly after dilution.
Includes:
(Click the link for details)
✅ Leather Stripping Deglazer 2.3✅ Leather pH Balanced Degreaser 2.2
✅ Leather Rinsing Conditioner 3.0
✅ Leather Acidifying Conditioner 2.0
✅ Aniline Staining Dye 21
✅ Leather Hydrating Conditioner 3.3
✅ Leather Fatliquoring Conditioner 5.0
✅ Leather Adhesion Primer 73
✅ Aniline Gloss Coating Dye 76
✅ Leather Scent Buttery Feel Conditioner B Plus
✅ Leather Brush 1
✅ Foam Brush 2
✅ Towel 5
✅ Leather Eraser 4
1️⃣ Deglazer 2.3 (strip unwanted repairs, old finishing, solvent based paint, ballpoint ink, permanent marker)
- Deglazer 2.3 is strictly used on the surface controlling being absorbed by the leather crust.
- Transfer to lint free towel and surface wipe to control unnecessary absorbing into the leather that dries up the natural fat and oil).
- Optional Airbrushing and towel extract with control absorbing into the leather crust.
- Agitate gently and allow 10–30 minutes dwell.
- Wipe off emulsified contamination, and continue cleaning.
1️⃣ Degreaser 2.2 (dissolve oils & grease)
- Brush onto greasy/stained areas.
- Agitate gently and allow 10–30 minutes dwell.
- Wipe off emulsified contamination, and continue cleaning.
2️⃣ Soft 3.8 (remove residual soiling)
- Apply by sponge or brush.
- Work with brush for thorough overall cleaning.
- Towel off soiling, and continue rinsing
3️⃣ Rinse 3.0 (rinsing)
- Sponge-apply evenly.
- Wipe clean; ensure no residue remains.
- Towel off soiling, and continue acidifying.
4️⃣ Acidifier 2.0 (pH balance, stabilize)
- Apply onto areas treated above.
- Brush or pad evenly.
- Wipe off dissolved residues.
- Check for a healthy squeaky clean, and continue hydrating.
5️⃣ Hydrator 3.3 (rehydrate & relax structure)
- Saturate leather until evenly moist.
- Allow several hours (or overnight) consistency moist for deep penetration to activate dormant dyestuff, and continue stain dyeing.
6️⃣ Dye 21 (aniline dye staining)
- Lightly sponge or spray.
- Blend in circular motion for uniformity.
- Even out with Hydrator 3.3, and continue with fatliquoring.
7️⃣ Fatliquor 5.0 (replenishing fat and oil)
- Apply while leather is still damp.
- Multiple light applications, allowing absorption between coats, until desired suppleness is achieved.
- Let dry completely before proceeding
SEQUENCE 5 – DRY-PROCESS (begins with inspection, stretching, surface soiling is removed by eraser, sanding, or dry stripping)- Inspect for soiling condition
- Remove by Eraser 4 (inspect for satisfaction)
- Remove by Sanding 1000 to 2000 grit (inspect for satisfaction)
- Stripping by Leather Razor 60
8️⃣ Primer 73 (primer for adhesion)
- Apply evenly and scrub with 3M white scotch pad to remove deteriorating finishes and even out appearance.
- Let dry naturally or with light air flow.
9️⃣ Dye 76 (dye coating)
- Apply thin, even layers by airbrush or sponge.
- Allow each coat to dry before layering additional coats for desired depth of color.
Gloss 76 (protective topcoat)
- Apply evenly by airbrush or sponge.
- Build up layers as needed for desired gloss intensity.
- Let cure thoroughly.
1️⃣1️⃣ Conditioner B (non-stick, buttery feel)
- Apply and spread with soft towel or applicator.
- Buff gently for even protection.
- Always test on a hidden area first for color compatibility.
- Maintain pH integrity at each step—never skip Acidifier 2.0 after degreasing!
- Allow sufficient drying/curing between stages to ensure lasting results.
What is a Glossy Aniline Leather?
- A glossy aniline leather is a variation finish that uses a gloss topcoat to seal and protect the dyestuff from bleeding. The leather is first colored with transparent dyestuff that retains the hide's natural surface, thus any visible pores, scars or blemishes remain visible a characteristic of the Sauvage variations.
- Visual identification helps in instant recognition to establish a match from among the varied aniline varieties without compromising its original visual characteristics.
This matrix categorizes common issues with Aniline into five groups:
Corresponding recommended products are displayed across the top row.
Each number within the matrix indicates the steps required to address the problem holistically.
If a leather issue involves an unknown compound that combines soil, stain, and odor, follow the sequence across the matrix, combining necessary steps from each category.
- Hydrator 3.3 to rehydrate and relax the leather.
- Fatliquor 5.0 to replenish lost fats and oils, restoring suppleness.
- Conditioner B conditioning the leather for ongoing durability.
Any questions you may have will be answered from our help and support forum:
http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?59-Upholstery-Aniline-Leathers
Edited on May 24, 2024 - updated December 23, 2024 - updated April 6, 2025 | July 4, 2025 | December 10, 2025 by Roger Koh.
Editing-in-progress . . .
Integrating Chemical vs Mechanical stripping
Below is a Leather-Safe™, tannery-aligned way to integrate Chemical vs Mechanical stripping into Kit A7.cl, clarifying when to use Deglazer 2.3, when to use Razor 60, and—most importantly—how to combine them without overdrying, collapsing fibers, or accelerating dry rot in absorbent aniline leather.
Core Principle (Leather Doctor Position)
Stripping is not about removing everything.
It is about removing only what is unwanted while preserving fiber integrity.
Aniline leather is open, absorbent, and fatliquor-dependent.
Any stripping method—chemical or mechanical—must therefore be:
- Controlled
- Localized
- Sequenced with hydration and fatliquoring
This is why Deglazer 2.3 and Razor 60 are not substitutes—they are complementary tools used at different structural risk levels.
Chemical vs Mechanical Stripping — Leather-Safe™ Comparison
| Aspect | Deglazer 2.3 (Chemical) | Razor 60 (Mechanical) |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Action | Solubilizes unwanted finishes, paints, inks. | Physically removes deteriorated surface layers |
| Penetration Risk | High if over-absorbed | Minimal if used correctly |
| Drying Effect | Can extract fat/oil if misused | No chemical dehydration |
| Best For | Solvent-based paints, finishes, ink, waxy residues | Cracked, powdery, absorbent, dry-rotting finishes |
| Leather-Safe Risk. | Over-drying if flooded | Fiber damage if scraped aggressively |
Key Rule:
The more absorbent, cracked, or dry-rotted the leather is, the LESS chemical stripping it should receive.
Why Deglazer 2.3 Must Be Controlled on Aniline Leather
Deglazer 2.3 is effective but unforgiving if misapplied.
On aniline leather:
- Excess absorption = fatliquor extraction
- Fatliquor loss = stiffness, cracking, dry rot
- Cosmetic success can hide structural failure
Leather-Safe™ Deglazer Rules
✅ Always transfer Deglazer 2.3 onto a towel, never directly onto leather
✅ Use wipe-on / wipe-off, not soaking
✅ Limit dwell time to surface reaction only
✅ Follow immediately with Degreaser → Rinse → Acidifier
Think of Deglazer 2.3 as:
- A scalpel, not a solvent bath
Why Razor 60 Is Essential for Fragile, Absorbent Leather
When finishes are:
- Powdery
- Cracked
- Chalky
- Fiber-Exposed
Chemical stripping no longer discriminates between:
- deteriorated finish
- healthy collagen fiber
Razor 60 Advantage
✅ Removes only what is already detached
✅ Zero chemical dehydration
✅ Preserves remaining fatliquor
✅ Ideal for dry-rotting aniline crust
Razor 60 is therefore Leather-Safe™ by mechanical selectivity, not aggression.
Leather-Safe™ Combined Strategy (Best Practice)
Phase 1 — Minimal Chemical Intervention (Wet-Process)
Goal: Remove foreign contamination only, not structure.
1️⃣ Deglazer 2.3 (Controlled Surface Wipe)
- Only where:
- paint
- ink
- incompatible coatings
- Apply via towel → wipe → extract
- No saturation
2️⃣ Degreaser 2.2
- Dissolves body oil and greasy binders
- Prepares surface for pH correction
3️⃣ Rinse 3.0
- Removes chemical residues
- Prevents alkaline drift
4️⃣ Acidifier 2.0
- Restores ionic balance
- Stabilizes collagen before hydration
At this stage, stripping stops chemically.
Phase 2 — Structural Recovery Before Further Removal
This step is non-negotiable for leather safety.
5️⃣ Hydrator 3.3
- Saturate to re-open fiber structure
- Prevents cracking during later mechanical work
6️⃣ Fatliquor 5.0
- Replenishes fats and oils
- Restores tensile strength
- Stops stripping from becoming destructive
Only after this internal recovery is the leather safe to be further refined.
Phase 3 — Selective Mechanical Refinement (Dry-Process)
Now Razor 60 becomes the safer stripping tool.
7️⃣ Inspection & Dry Removal
- Eraser 4 → Sanding 1000–2000 grit
- Evaluate before escalating
8️⃣ Razor 60
-
Used only on:
-
loose finishes
-
cracked coatings
-
fiber-exposed residue
-
-
Light passes only
-
Never dig into grain
This avoids:
-
solvent shock
-
oil extraction
-
fiber collapse
Why Primer 73 Comes After Razor 60 (Not Before)
Primer 73:
-
Consolidates surface
-
Locks down micro-fibers
-
Improves adhesion for Dye 76
If applied before removing loose finishes:
-
It seals in deterioration
-
Causes future peeling
Thus:
Strip → stabilize → prime → dye
Leather-Safe™ Logic Summary
Deglazer 2.3
-
Early
-
Minimal
-
Surface-controlled
-
Contamination-focused
Razor 60
-
Later
-
Selective
-
Structural-safe
-
Deterioration-focused
Hydration & Fatliquoring
-
Must occur between chemical and mechanical stripping
-
Converts stripping from destructive → restorative
Final Key Takeaway (for Kit A7.cl)
The safest stripping process is not choosing chemical or mechanical.
It is:
Sequencing chemical restraint + mechanical selectivity + structural restoration
This is what makes Leather Doctor’s A7.cl system fundamentally different:
-
Not cosmetic stripping
-
Not aggressive refinishing
-
But tannery-correct rejuvenation first, beauty second
Beautiful leather that fails structurally is not restoration.
Restored structure that looks beautiful—that is Leather Doctor.
1 Review Hide Reviews Show Reviews
-
Repair of Dry Rot and Sun Damage on 20-yr old Semi Aniline Couch
I finished the restoration of the couch today and I am very happy with the results. Roger's products are high quality, effective, and forgiving to work with. This kit had all I needed to repair a large couch with significant dry rot and sun damage. I ordered a 16 oz kit, as well as extra hydrator and fat liquor. I used 28 oz of the Hydrator 3.3 and 26 oz of the Fat Liquor 5.0. I used almost all of the rinse and acidifier. I have just a teaspoon or two of Dye 21, and I used all the Dye 76. I was able to restore the surface of the dry-rotted cushions to smooth with the help of Repairer 4.0. I recommend applying Dye 21 with bright natural light so you can ensure it is applied evenly. I did not realize how faded and dried out the leather was until I began restoration. The products and methodology where very exactly what this couch needed. Plus the ability to reach out to Roger with questions is a level of customer support I have never experienced before. The couch does not look new, I think it actually looks better than new. I now looks like a well loved, and well maintained piece of vintage furniture. It reminds of a leather club chair you might find in a high-end restaurant or hotel, very classy.