Shearling Suede Cleaner and Conditioner Kit SS3

 Shearling Suede Cleaner and Conditioner Kit SS3, by Leather Doctor, cleans, rinses, hydrates, softens, and conditions the outer suede and inner wool faces.

Kit SS3 is handpicked for periodic care to keep shearling looking smart and prevent premature aging, such as creases, wrinkles, shrinkage or dry rotting. It also helps maintain the wool face’s cleanliness, health, and bloom.

 What is Shearling Suede?

A shearling suede is a double-face sheepskin garment, where the suede side is worn as the outer face, and the sheared wool serves as the inner lining.

 What are the signs of Shearling Suede Dry Rotting?

Dry rot in Shearling Suede is a serious issue that can compromise both the look and structural integrity of the garment. Here are the key signs to watch for:

• Stiffness and Brittleness: The suede becomes hard and inflexible, losing its natural softness. It may feel like cardboard and crack when bent.

• Fading and Discoloration: The material may appear faded or uneven in color, especially if exposed to sunlight or improper cleaning agents.

• Lack of Response to Brushing: Healthy suede changes color slightly when brushed due to its nap. Dry-rotted suede won’t respond—it stays dull and lifeless.

• Cracking or Flaking: You might notice the surface cracking, flaking, or peeling, especially around stress points like seams or elbows.

• Unpleasant Odor: A musty or sour smell can indicate mold or mildew, which often accompanies dry rot.

• Matting or Shedding of Shearling: The fluffy interior may become matted or start shedding excessively, losing its insulating properties.

 What are the Signs of Premature Aging in Suede?

Premature aging signs typically appear in the folds of the garment and may include:

• Creases and wrinkles forming in the suede.

• Sleeves appear shorter than usual due to shrinkage.

 How to Revive Suede from Premature Aging and Controlling Dry Rotting?

Suede that has aged prematurely can be revived with hydration and fatliquoring, which restore its suppleness, flexibility and prevent further dry rotting.

 How to Lengthen the Sleeves of a Shearling?

• Sleeves naturally shrink as creases and wrinkles form.

• Hydrating and fatliquoring the suede makes it stretchable, allowing the sleeves to return to their original length.

• Periodic fatliquoring prevents shrinkage and keeps sleeves at their normal length.

 How to Reduce Rubbing Wear?

• Friction rubbing—especially from arm swings—is the main cause of wear on shearling.

• Applying Conditioner S periodically reduces friction and extends the suede’s lifespan.

 Why Does Suede Become Stiff and Tear Easily?

• Suede remains supple and strong due to its natural fat and oil content.

• Over time, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) the fat and oil evaporate, making suede stiff and prone to tearing.

• Heat exposure accelerates aging and can cause suede to dry rot.

• Water damage with high alkalinity can leach out fat and oil, leaving the suede brittle, stiff, and more likely to rip when dry.

 Where Should Suede Shearling Cleaning Begin?

To prevent cross-wetting, a step-by-step cleaning approach is recommended: 

1. Start with the Wool Face:

• Turn the garment inside out to expose the wool face first.

• Clean and dry the wool face completely before proceeding.

2. Clean the Suede Side:

• Once the wool is dry, turn the garment back to its natural position.

• Clean and dry the suede side thoroughly.

3. Condition Both Sides Separately:

• Wool Side: Apply Conditioner S, let it dry, and groom to restore bloom.

• Suede Side: Apply Conditioner W, let it dry, and the shearling is ready to wear.

This step-by-step approach prevents cross-wetting, but some may prefer a different method—choose what suits you best! 

 Easy-to-Use Concentrate Preparation.   

Kit SS3 concentrates contents require 1734g (1.9 quarts) distilled water to be mixed and filled before use with these selected leather-safe products:

 Kit SS3 Product Summary Includes:

✅ Suede Soft Cleaner 4.5
✅ Suede Rinse 3.0
✅ Suede Hydrator 3.3
✅ Suede Fatliquor 5.0
✅ Suede Conditioner W
✅ Sheepskin Wool Cleaner 5.5
✅ Sheepskin Wool Rinse 4.0
✅ Sheepskin Wool Conditioner S
✅ Suede Napa Brush 2
✅ Sheepskin Wool Brush 4
✅ Suede Eraser 5
✅ Towel 1

 Suede Soft Cleaner 4.5 by Leather Doctor® is a water-based, pH-balanced (4.5) suede sanitizer and cleaner for all suede types for a safe and effective clean. 

• Soft 4.5 is a suede-safe, water-based, mildly acidic cleaner specifically formulated for suede.
• It’s part of Leather Doctor’s Suede-Safe™ system, designed to clean while preserving the suede's delicate nap and amphoteric chemistry. 
• A suede-safe cleaner with no risk of bleeds, rings, or browning that delivers without compromising delicate suede properties for:

 Suede Rinse 3.0 by Leather Doctor® is a pH 3.0 rinse that removes suspended soiling, balances pH, and ionic recharges protein fibers to healthy structure and feel.

 Suede Hydrator 3.3 is a suede-safe pH 3.3 aqueous surfactant solution formulated by Leather Doctor® to clean, hydrate, relax, and restore the suede's internal structure during cleaning, conditioning, and restoration processes - in line with its tannery science-based function.

• It mimics the hydration stage of tannery pre-conditioning to prepare suede for deeper structural rejuvenation.

 Suede Fatliquor 5.0 by Leather Doctor® is a pH 5.0 emulsion of fat, oil, and water conditioner / fatliquor / softener for replenishing dry suede, in line with its tannery science-based function. 

• It restores suede’s internal lubrication, flexibility, strength, and resilience, replenishing the original fatliquor content of suede’s fibrous structure. . .
• mimicking the essential fatliquoring stage in professional tanning and retanning processes.

 Suede Conditioner W by Leather Doctor is a matte, soft, waxy-feel, non-stick, rub-resistant conditioner designed to enhance and protect suede while maintaining a refined, natural appearance.

• Specialty Suede Wax Conditioner W:
• pH 9.6 Formulation – Specifically designed to facilitate wax coagulation with acidic suede fibers.
• Unique Coagulation Process – Enhances the bonding of fine wax particulates to the suede for a superior finish.
• Soft & Waxy Feel – Imparts a luxurious, natural waxy texture to the suede.
• Exception to Conventional Formulas – Unlike typical suede conditioners, this formulation relies on alkalinity to achieve optimal results. 

 Sheepskin Wool Cleaner 5.5 by Leather Doctor is a wool-safe disinfectant cleaner designed to clean, deodorize, and refresh wool skin, sheepskin, and shearling while reducing wool odors during drying.

• Key Features:
• Wool-Safe Formula – Maintains the integrity of delicate wool fibers
• pH 5.5 Balanced – Gentle and effective for all wool types
• Water-Based – Penetrates and lifts dirt without harsh chemicals
• Deodorizing Action – Reduces odors for a fresher finish
• Safe for Multiple Materials – Suitable for wool, feather, hair-on-hide, and most fabrics (except rayon and silk) 

 Sheepskin Wool Rinse 4.0 by Leather Doctor is a pH 4.0 wool-safe rinse designed to remove suspended soiling, balance pH levels, and restore a healthy, squeaky feel to wool skin, shearling, and sheepskin.

• Key Benefits:
• Rinses & Removes Residue – Effectively lifts and clears soiling after cleaning
• pH Balancing – Neutralizes and stabilizes the wool’s pH chemistry integrity
• Strengthens Wool Fibers – Enhances fiber resilience after drying
• Restores Natural Softness – Leaves a fresh, clean, and soft finish

 Sheepskin Wool Conditioner S by Leather Doctor is a non-stick, rub-resistant, soft, and smooth conditioner designed to protect and enhance the resilience of shearling wool, sheepskin, and woolskin.

• Key Benefits:
• Prevents Rubbing Breakage – Strengthens wool fibers to resist friction damage
• Softens & Enhances Smoothness – Maintains a luxurious, plush texture
• Non-Film-Forming & Breathable – Preserves the wool’s natural breathability
• Shields Against Sticky Soiling – Reduces attraction of dirt and contaminants 

 Suede Napa Brush 2 by Leather Doctor is a stiff nylon detailing brush for gentle cleaning and soft setting of the nap.

• It is designed ergonomically to be an extension of our hand with a sturdy grooved grip to produce effective results easily and efficiently. 
• It is used correctly at an angle to reduce scratches.
• Length is 7 inches with a three-row nylon bristle 1½ inches cleaning head.

 Suede Eraser 5 by Leather Doctor is a fine pumice block with a corrugated side for effective nap exfoliation, especially for all suede types including the reverse hair-on-hide.

• Length 2.5inch x Height 2inch x Width:0.8inch.

 Sheepskin Wool Brush 4 by Leather Doctor, is a detailing steel brush for brushing and grooming the wool face of sheepskin and Shearlings.

• It is designed ergonomically to be an extension of our hand with a sturdy grooved grip to produce effective results easily and efficiently.
• Its length is 7 inches with a three-row steel 1½ inches cleaning head.

 Towel 1 is a thick, absorbent washcloth with a soft ring-spun loop pile, lint-free measuring 12" x 12", perfect for cleaning, rinsing, and drying. Its thick fabric offers superior absorption, making it highly effective for any leather or wool care task.

Summary:

Kit SS3 is a complete suede shearling maintenance system, that ensures cleanliness, softness, and durability. It helps prevent premature aging, dryness, stiffness, and shrinkage while keeping the wool fresh and blooming. With this system, your shearling remains comfortable, flexible, and long-lasting.

Wool Cleaning, Rinsing, and Conditioning Instructions

1. Soil Removal

• Dry soiling is brushed and vacuumed before proceeding to cleaning.

2. Cleaning

• Mix Wool 5.5 concentrate (1:64) with 224g distilled water (or fill 1.5 inches from the top of an 8oz bottle).

• Apply Wool 5.5, brush in one direction at a low slanting angle, and extract with Towel 1 until clean.

3. Rinsing

• Mix Rinse 4.0 concentrate (1:40) with 222g distilled water (or fill 1.5 inches from the top of an 8oz bottle).

• Apply, brush in one direction, and extract with Towel 1 until the wool feels squeaky clean.

4. Drying

• Let the wool dry naturally and wipe off the wick-up soiling with a dry towel before conditioning.

5. Conditioning

• Mix Conditioner S concentrate (1:19) with 217g distilled water.

• Apply, brush evenly, allow to dry completely, and groom with a slicker comb for a "bloom" effect.

Suede Cleaning, Rinsing, Hydrating, Fatliquoring, and Conditioning Instructions

1. Dry Soil Removal

• Brush with Brush 2, renew nap with Eraser 5, vacuum, and extract with Towel 1 until clean.

2. Cleaning

• Mix Suede 4.5 concentrate (1:64) with 224g distilled water.

• Apply, brush, and extract with Towel 1 until clean.

3. Rinsing

• Mix Rinse 3.0 concentrate (1:40) with 222g distilled water.

• Apply, brush, and extract until the suede is squeaky clean.

4. Hydrating

• Mix Hydrator 3.3 concentrate (1:25) with 218g distilled water.

• Apply, brush, and stretch creases and wrinkles while damp.

5. Fatliquoring

• Mix Fatliquor 5.0 concentrate (1:5) with 189g distilled water.

• Apply, brush, and allow slow natural drying, stretching, and massaging before it is fully dry.

6. Conditioning

• Mix Conditioner W concentrate (1:19) with 217g distilled water.

• Apply evenly, let dry, and brush to raise the nap.

Tips for Best Results

1. Improve appearance with low-heat ironing on the wool setting.

2. Place a white absorbent paper between suede and iron before applying heat.

People Also Ask:

What is Hydrating?

Hydrating primarily serves to relax tired and aging suede before the fatliquoring process. It helps separate fibrils stuck together and open up inter-fibrillary spaces, allowing for effective colloidal water movement within the suede. This process facilitates the removal of contaminants, which can be extracted with a towel while damp and erased when dry. Additionally, hydrating plumps the suede, reducing unnatural creases and wrinkles. It stabilizes the pH integrity of the suede and charges the protein fibers positively (+ve), enabling better bonding with the negatively (-ve) charged fat liquor. To achieve optimal hydration, moisture should visibly ooze out when the suede is gently pressed between the thumb and fingers before stretching.

What is the Recommended Ratio of Hydrator 3.3 to Fatliquor 5.0?

For severely dry suede, the recommended ratio of Hydrator 3.3 to Fatliquor 5.0 is 2:1 by weight. Specifically, 160g of Hydrator 3.3 and 80g of Fatliquor 5.0 are needed to restore 100g of dry suede from less than 1% moisture content to the standard 14% moisture level used in modern tanneries.

What is Fatliquoring?

Fatliquoring is a process that follows hydration, where fat and oil are introduced into the suede to maintain softness, reduce creases and wrinkles, and enhance resistance to ripping or tearing.

Why is Fatliquoring Important?

Fatliquoring is a key tannery process that softens suede by immersing it in a rotating drum—similar to a washing machine. Today, fatliquoring is a convenient "fatliquor-in-a-bottle" solution, which can be sprayed onto suede to revive its natural suppleness without altering its original characteristics.

What is Fatliquor?

Fatliquor is essential for suede maintenance and consists of an emulsion of negatively (-ve) charged fats and oils. It keeps suede soft and smooth by plumping the fibrils for fullness while lubricating them, allowing the fibers to move smoothly over one another. This lubrication ensures that the suede remains breathable and supports natural transpiration.

How Does Fatliquor Work?

Fatliquor functions through hydrogen bonding, where the positively (+ve) charged suede fibrils attract the negatively (-ve) charged fat and oil molecules. The fat and oil remain as water evaporates, filling the inter-fibrillary spaces and preserving breathability.

What are the Benefits of Fatliquor Compared to Conditioning Oils?

Unlike conditioning oils, fat liquor is not greasy or leaves an oily residue once dry. In addition to softening the suede, fatliquoring significantly improves its tensile strength, reduces coarse breaks, creases, and wrinkles, and prevents premature aging.

What is the Visual Difference Between Conditioning Oil and Fatliquor?

Conditioning oil darkens suede, even when dry. In contrast, fatliquoring enhances color intensity without causing any darkening effects.

How Does Breathability Differ Between Conditioning Oil and Fatliquor?

Conditioning oil can clog suede’s breathing pores, trapping moisture and leading to discomfort from excessive sweating during prolonged wear. Fatliquoring, on the other hand, forms hydrogen bonds with the suede’s positively (+ve) charged protein fibers, ensuring that the breathing pores remain open for comfortable wear without excessive sweating.

How Does Durability Compare Between Conditioning Oil and Fatliquor?

Conditioning oils, which simply fill air spaces, tend to evaporate quickly. However, fatliquoring provides long-lasting effects by hydrogen bonding with the suede’s positively (+ve) charged protein fibers, ensuring greater durability.

What is the Approximate Fatliquor Content in Suede?

After undergoing the modern tannery fatliquoring processes, suede retains up to 14% fat and oil content, depending on the suede type and usage. This percentage decreases over time due to aging, heat exposure, water alkalinity, or excessive pH fluctuations.

How is the Fatliquor Content Percentage Calculated?

The fat and oil content is measured based on the dry weight of the suede. For example, if a piece of suede weighs 100g and its fatliquor content is below 1%, applying 80g of Fatliquor 5.0 will increase the fatliquor content by approximately 13.3% when dry, as 66.6% of its water content will evaporate. 

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Updated February 4, 2024|September 5, 2025 by Roger Koh.