Shearling Suede Cleaner and Conditioner Kit SS3

Shearling Suede Cleaner and Conditioner Kit SS3, by Leather Doctor, cleans, rinses, hydrates, softens, and conditions the outer suede and inner wool faces.

Kit SS3 is handpicked for periodic care to keep shearling looking smart and prevent premature aging, such as creases, wrinkles, or shrinkage. It also helps maintain the wool face’s cleanliness, health, and bloom.

What is Suede Shearling?

A suede shearling is a double-face sheepskin garment, where the suede side is worn as the outer face, and the sheared wool serves as the inner lining.

What are the Signs of Premature Aging in Suede?

Premature aging signs typically appear in the folds of the garment and may include:

✔ Creases and wrinkles forming in the suede.
✔ Sleeves appear shorter than usual due to shrinkage.

How to Revive Suede from Premature Aging?

Suede that has aged prematurely can be revived with hydration and fatliquoring, which restore its suppleness and flexibility.

How to Lengthen the Sleeves of a Shearling?

✔ Sleeves naturally shrink as creases and wrinkles form.
✔ Hydrating and fatliquoring the suede makes it stretchable, allowing the sleeves to return to their original length.
✔ Periodic fatliquoring prevents shrinkage and keeps sleeves at their normal length.

How to Reduce Rubbing Wear?

✔ Friction rubbing—especially from arm swings—is the main cause of wear on shearling.
✔ Applying Conditioner W periodically reduces friction and extends the suede’s lifespan.

Why Does Suede Become Stiff and Tear Easily?

✔ Suede remains supple and strong due to its natural fat and oil content.
✔ Over time, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in the fat and oil evaporate, making suede stiff and prone to tearing.
✔ Heat exposure accelerates aging and can cause suede to dry rot.
✔ Water damage with high alkalinity can leach out fat and oil, leaving the suede brittle, stiff, and more likely to rip when dry.

Where Should Suede Shearling Cleaning Begin?

To prevent cross-wetting, a step-by-step cleaning approach is recommended: 

1. Start with the Wool Face:

✔ Turn the garment inside out to expose the wool face first.
✔ Clean and dry the wool face completely before proceeding.

2. Clean the Suede Side:

✔ Once the wool is dry, turn the garment back to its natural position.
✔ Clean and dry the suede side thoroughly.

3. Condition Both Sides Separately:

✔ Wool Side: Apply Conditioner S, let it dry, and groom to restore bloom.
✔ Suede Side: Apply Conditioner W, let it dry, and the shearling is ready to wear.

This step-by-step approach prevents cross-wetting, but some may prefer a different method—choose what suits you best! 

Kit SS3 – Suede Shearling Care System

Preparation

• Kit SS3 concentrates require 1734g (1.9 quarts) of distilled water before it is ready to use.

• This care kit includes eight products, each available individually for more details.

Suede Cleaning, Rinsing, Hydrating, Fatliquoring, and Conditioning System (5 Products)

1. Suede Cleaner 4.5

• A pH 4.5 leather-safe sanitizer-cleaner designed for suede.

• Prevents potential side effects like bleeding, rings, and browning.

2. Suede Rinse 3.0

• A pH 3.0 acidifying rinse that removes suspended soiling.

• Doubles as a pH balancer, ensuring a healthy, squeaky-clean finish.

• Enhances ionic attraction between suede components (tanning agent, dyestuff, and fat liquor).

3. Suede Hydrator 3.3

• A pH 3.3 water-based specialty relaxer.

• Hydrates dried, stiff, and shrunken suede before fatliquoring.

• It helps reactivate dormant dyestuff and ensures even surface tension.

4. Suede Fatliquor 5.0

• A pH 5.0 ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil microemulsion.

• Softens suede replenishes diminishing fat and oil and prevents premature aging.

• Plumps protein fibrils for fullness and suppleness.

• Reduces creases, wrinkles, and dry rot formation.

5. Suede Conditioner W

• Imparts a waxy feel rub-resistant barrier.

• Reduces friction wear, stretching, scuffing, and sticky soiling.

• Enhances wet and dry rub resistance.

Wool Cleaning, Rinsing, and Conditioning System (3 Products)

6. Sheepskin Wool Cleaner 5.5

• A pH 5.5 wool-safe disinfectant cleaner.

• Reduces wool odors during drying.

• Cleans gently by suspending soiling through a chemical reaction.

7. Sheepskin Wool Rinse 4.0

• A pH 4.0 acidifying rinse that removes suspended soiling.

• Balances pH to maintain wool integrity and strength.

• It leaves a healthy, squeaky feel on the wool.

8. Wool Conditioner S

• A nonstick, rub-resistant soft conditioner.

• Protects wool from rubbing breakage and sticky soiling.

• Provides a breathable barrier for longevity.

Essential Tools

Suede Brush 2

• Stiff nylon detailing brush for gentle suede cleaning.

• Ergonomic grooved grip for control and efficiency.

• Size: 7 inches, three-row nylon bristle (1.5-inch cleaning head).

Suede Eraser 5

• Fine pumice block with a corrugated side.

• Effectively exfoliates suede nap, including reverse hair-on-hide.

• Size: 2.5 inches (L) x 2 inches (H) x 0.8 inches (W).

Wool Brush 4

• Detailing steel brush for grooming wool surfaces.

• Ergonomic grooved grip for precision and comfort.

• Size: 7 inches, three-row steel bristle (1.5-inch cleaning head).

Towel 1

• Thick, absorbent washcloth with soft ring-spun loops.

• Lint-free, perfect for cleaning, rinsing, and drying tasks.

• Size: 12 inches x 12 inches.

Summary

Kit SS3 is a complete suede shearling maintenance system, that ensures cleanliness, softness, and durability. It helps prevent premature aging, dryness, stiffness, and shrinkage while keeping the wool fresh and blooming. With this system, your shearling remains comfortable, flexible, and long-lasting.

Wool Cleaning, Rinsing, and Conditioning Instructions

1. Soil Removal

• Dry soiling is brushed and vacuumed before proceeding to cleaning.

2. Cleaning

• Mix Wool 5.5 concentrate (1:64) with 224g distilled water (or fill 1.5 inches from the top of an 8oz bottle).

• Apply Wool 5.5, brush in one direction at a low slanting angle, and extract with Towel 1 until clean.

3. Rinsing

• Mix Rinse 4.0 concentrate (1:40) with 222g distilled water (or fill 1.5 inches from the top of an 8oz bottle).

• Apply, brush in one direction, and extract with Towel 1 until the wool feels squeaky clean.

4. Drying

• Let the wool dry naturally and wipe off the wick-up soiling with a dry towel before conditioning.

5. Conditioning

• Mix Conditioner S concentrate (1:19) with 217g distilled water.

• Apply, brush evenly, allow to dry completely, and groom with a slicker comb for a "bloom" effect.

Suede Cleaning, Rinsing, Hydrating, Fatliquoring, and Conditioning Instructions

1. Dry Soil Removal

• Brush with Brush 2, renew nap with Eraser 5, vacuum, and extract with Towel 1 until clean.

2. Cleaning

• Mix Suede 4.5 concentrate (1:64) with 224g distilled water.

• Apply, brush, and extract with Towel 1 until clean.

3. Rinsing

• Mix Rinse 3.0 concentrate (1:40) with 222g distilled water.

• Apply, brush, and extract until the suede is squeaky clean.

4. Hydrating

• Mix Hydrator 3.3 concentrate (1:25) with 218g distilled water.

• Apply, brush, and stretch creases and wrinkles while damp.

5. Fatliquoring

• Mix Fatliquor 5.0 concentrate (1:5) with 189g distilled water.

• Apply, brush, and allow slow natural drying, stretching, and massaging before it is fully dry.

6. Conditioning

• Mix Conditioner W concentrate (1:19) with 217g distilled water.

• Apply evenly, let dry, and brush to raise the nap.

Tips for Best Results

1. Improve appearance with low-heat ironing on the wool setting.

2. Place a white absorbent paper between suede and iron before applying heat.

People Also Ask:

What is Hydrating?

Hydrating primarily serves to relax tired and aging suede before the fatliquoring process. It helps separate fibrils stuck together and open up inter-fibrillary spaces, allowing for effective colloidal water movement within the suede. This process facilitates the removal of contaminants, which can be extracted with a towel while damp and erased when dry. Additionally, hydrating plumps the suede, reducing unnatural creases and wrinkles. It stabilizes the pH integrity of the suede and charges the protein fibers positively (+ve), enabling better bonding with the negatively (-ve) charged fat liquor. To achieve optimal hydration, moisture should visibly ooze out when the suede is gently pressed between the thumb and fingers before stretching.

What is the Recommended Ratio of Hydrator 3.3 to Fatliquor 5.0?

For severely dry suede, the recommended ratio of Hydrator 3.3 to Fatliquor 5.0 is 2:1 by weight. Specifically, 160g of Hydrator 3.3 and 80g of Fatliquor 5.0 are needed to restore 100g of dry suede from less than 1% moisture content to the standard 14% moisture level used in modern tanneries.

What is Fatliquoring?

Fatliquoring is a process that follows hydration, where fat and oil are introduced into the suede to maintain softness, reduce creases and wrinkles, and enhance resistance to ripping or tearing.

Why is Fatliquoring Important?

Fatliquoring is a key tannery process that softens suede by immersing it in a rotating drum—similar to a washing machine. Today, fatliquoring is a convenient "fatliquor-in-a-bottle" solution, which can be sprayed onto suede to revive its natural suppleness without altering its original characteristics.

What is Fatliquor?

Fatliquor is essential for suede maintenance and consists of an emulsion of negatively (-ve) charged fats and oils. It keeps suede soft and smooth by plumping the fibrils for fullness while lubricating them, allowing the fibers to move smoothly over one another. This lubrication ensures that the suede remains breathable and supports natural transpiration.

How Does Fatliquor Work?

Fatliquor functions through hydrogen bonding, where the positively (+ve) charged suede fibrils attract the negatively (-ve) charged fat and oil molecules. The fat and oil remain as water evaporates, filling the inter-fibrillary spaces and preserving breathability.

What are the Benefits of Fatliquor Compared to Conditioning Oils?

Unlike conditioning oils, fat liquor is not greasy or leaves an oily residue once dry. In addition to softening the suede, fatliquoring significantly improves its tensile strength, reduces coarse breaks, creases, and wrinkles, and prevents premature aging.

What is the Visual Difference Between Conditioning Oil and Fatliquor?

Conditioning oil darkens suede, even when dry. In contrast, fatliquoring enhances color intensity without causing any darkening effects.

How Does Breathability Differ Between Conditioning Oil and Fatliquor?

Conditioning oil can clog suede’s breathing pores, trapping moisture and leading to discomfort from excessive sweating during prolonged wear. Fatliquoring, on the other hand, forms hydrogen bonds with the suede’s positively (+ve) charged protein fibers, ensuring that the breathing pores remain open for comfortable wear without excessive sweating.

How Does Durability Compare Between Conditioning Oil and Fatliquor?

Conditioning oils, which simply fill air spaces, tend to evaporate quickly. However, fatliquoring provides long-lasting effects by hydrogen bonding with the suede’s positively (+ve) charged protein fibers, ensuring greater durability.

What is the Approximate Fatliquor Content in Suede?

After undergoing the modern tannery fatliquoring processes, suede retains up to 14% fat and oil content, depending on the suede type and usage. This percentage decreases over time due to aging, heat exposure, water alkalinity, or excessive pH fluctuations.

How is the Fatliquor Content Percentage Calculated?

The fat and oil content is measured based on the dry weight of the suede. For example, if a piece of suede weighs 100g and its fatliquor content is below 1%, applying 80g of Fatliquor 5.0 will increase the fatliquor content by approximately 13.3% when dry, as 66.6% of its water content will evaporate. 

Updated February 4, 2024, by Roger Koh.

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