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Leather & Suede Degreasing & Rejuvenating System — Instructions

Start Here: Determine Which System Your Leather Needs

Before purchasing or beginning treatment, first determine whether the leather is absorbent or non-absorbent.

The difference is important because the two conditions require different treatment chemistries.

Non-Absorbent Leather — Intact Topcoat

If water remains on the surface without readily penetrating the leather, the topcoat is substantially intact.

Use the Non-Absorbent Finished Leather Cleaning System:

Degreaser 7.5 → Soft Rinse 5.0 → Dry → Inspect

This pathway is designed primarily to remove surface contamination while preserving the existing finish. If the cleaned surface requires improved feel, a compatible feel conditioner may be used.

Do not introduce the low-pH absorbent-leather restoration sequence simply because the leather is dirty or feels slightly dry.

Absorbent Leather — Exposed Leather Structure

If water readily penetrates the leather, the leather structure is accessible to wet processing.

This may be naturally absorbent leather such as aniline, Vachetta, nubuck, or suede, or leather that was originally finished but has become absorbent because its topcoat has worn away.

Use the Leather & Suede Degreasing & Rejuvenating System:

Degreaser 2.2 → Rinse 3.0 → Wet Hand Test → Acidifier 2.0 if indicated → Hydrator 3.3 → Fatliquor 5.0

The objective is not only to remove contamination, but to restore the internal condition of the leather after deep wet processing.

Before You Begin

1. Identify the Leather

Determine whether the leather is:

  • Finished / pigmented

  • Semi-aniline

  • Aniline

  • Vachetta / unfinished vegetable-tanned

  • Nubuck

  • Suede

  • Hair-on-hide

If the leather was originally finished but now absorbs water, consider whether topcoat wear has exposed the underlying leather structure.

2. Perform an Absorbency Test

Place a small amount of distilled water on an inconspicuous area.

Observe whether the water:

  • Beads and remains on the surface → non-absorbent

  • Slowly penetrates → partially absorbent

  • Readily penetrates → absorbent

Always interpret the test together with the leather's appearance, wear pattern, and construction.

3. Perform the Preliminary Wet Hand Test

Perform the test in the center of the area that will be degreased, particularly where body contact, perspiration, or oily contamination is suspected.

Lightly wet your hand and rub the leather with gentle pressure. Then compare the feel of the test area with an adjacent, less-affected area.

The purpose of this test is to help determine whether the affected area has developed a tacky, sticky, or slimy feel associated with alkaline contamination.

Long-aged perspiration and body contamination can become chemically altered over time. Previous use of household alkaline cleaners may further contribute to an elevated or imbalanced pH condition. In contrast, a fresh oil spill does not necessarily indicate that the leather's tanning chemistry has been affected.

Compare Before Deciding

A difference between the affected center and the surrounding leather is significant.

  • Center feels tacky, sticky, or slimy compared with the surrounding leather: This may indicate that deeper contamination and pH imbalance should be addressed during the wet-processing treatment. Include Acidifier 2.0 with the system purchase.

  • Center and surrounding leather feel similarly clean and non-tacky: Acidifier 2.0 may not be necessary.

  • Tackiness is mainly a surface condition and is similar over areas previously treated with conditioners: The tackiness may be associated with the existing surface treatment or topcoat rather than the leather's internal tanning chemistry.

In the latter situation, the appropriate approach is to first remove the surface contamination through Degreaser 2.2, rinse thoroughly with Rinse 3.0, and then reassess the leather. If the remaining concern is simply surface feel, a compatible non-stick conditioner such as Conditioner 3.2 can be used rather than unnecessarily acidifying the leather structure.

The preliminary Wet Hand Test is therefore a purchasing guide, not the final diagnosis. The same test should be repeated after Degreaser 2.2 and Rinse 3.0 to confirm whether Acidifier 2.0 is actually required.

Absorbent Leather Treatment

Step 1 — Degrease: Degreaser 2.2

Degreaser 2.2 is the primary deep-degreasing treatment for absorbent leather.

It is particularly useful for leather contaminated with:

  • Body oils

  • Perspiration

  • Grease

  • Fat

  • Oily lotions and creams

  • Long-term handling contamination

Apply Degreaser 2.2 according to the product instructions, working progressively from the more contaminated areas.

Allow the gel to remain in contact with the contaminated leather long enough to work, then extract the suspended contamination with an absorbent towel.

Repeat as necessary until the extracted contamination is substantially reduced.

Why Degreaser 2.2 Is Different

Degreaser 2.2 is a water-based acidic gel designed for controlled wet processing of absorbent leather.

Rather than depending primarily on volatile solvents to dissolve oil and then draw it into a drying poultice, its aqueous gel system uses wetting, emulsification, suspension, and ionic interactions to help loosen and lift embedded oily contamination for physical extraction.

This approach is particularly valuable for absorbent vegetable-tanned leather such as Vachetta, where controlled aqueous processing can provide a professional alternative to solvent-based poultice methods.

Special Consideration — Vachetta & Unfinished Vegetable-Tanned Leather

Vachetta is an absorbent vegetable-tanned leather and is particularly vulnerable to visible darkening from oils, perspiration, and handling contamination.

Its absorbent nature means that contamination can migrate below the immediate surface rather than remaining confined to the top.

For this reason, Degreaser 2.2 is especially relevant when deep oil and grease contamination is present.

Leather is an amphoteric protein material whose ionic behavior is strongly influenced by pH. Maintaining an appropriately acidic environment helps keep the leather's internal chemistry within a condition compatible with its tannage and other ionic components.

The objective is therefore not simply to dissolve oil, but to remove contamination while maintaining control over the leather's internal chemical environment.

Step 2 — Rinse: Rinse 3.0

After degreasing, thoroughly rinse the treated leather with Rinse 3.0.

The purpose is to remove:

  • Residual degreasing chemistry

  • Suspended contamination

  • Solubilized or emulsified oils

  • Other water-soluble residues released during degreasing

Use sufficient rinse solution to carry away the extracted contamination without unnecessarily overwetting the leather.

Extract the moisture with clean absorbent towels.

Allow the leather to remain evenly damp for the next diagnostic step.

Step 3 — Confirm: Wet Hand Test

Repeat the Wet Hand Test after Degreaser 2.2 and Rinse 3.0.

Lightly rub the damp leather with a clean, wet hand.

If the leather remains:

Tacky, sticky, or slimy

→ Proceed with Acidifier 2.0.

If the leather feels:

Clean, smooth, and non-tacky

→ Acidifier 2.0 may be skipped.

Proceed directly to Hydrator 3.3.

The first Wet Hand Test helps determine whether Acidifier 2.0 should be included in the purchase.

The second test confirms whether acidification is actually required after degreasing and rinsing.

Step 3A — Acidify When Indicated: Acidifier 2.0

Acidifier 2.0 is a leather-structure treatment, not a surface conditioner.

When absorbent leather has undergone deep wet processing and the Wet Hand Test remains positive, acidification can help bring the leather's internal ionic environment toward a more appropriate acidic condition.

This is particularly relevant when contamination and previous treatments have altered the leather's pH balance.

Leather's protein fiber structure interacts ionically with tanning agents, dyestuffs, and fatliquoring components. pH therefore plays an important role in maintaining the chemical equilibrium of the leather structure.

Apply Acidifier 2.0 according to its product instructions.

After treatment, proceed to hydration.

Why Acidifier 2.0 Is Not Used on Non-Absorbent Leather

A non-absorbent finished leather presents a different chemical environment.

Its intact topcoat separates the treatment from the underlying leather structure. If the surface has some tackiness, the objective is generally to refine the surface feel, not to acidify the leather beneath the finish.

For sensitive finished automotive leathers, especially Nappa-type finishes, a compatible feel conditioner is therefore preferred when needed.

The treatment principle is simple:

Absorbent leather → restore the leather structure.

Non-absorbent finished leather → preserve and refine the topcoat.

Step 4 — Hydrate: Hydrator 3.3

After degreasing, rinsing, and acidification when indicated, restore moisture to the leather structure with Hydrator 3.3.

Hydrator 3.3 helps rehydrate the protein fiber structure and prepares the leather for fatliquoring.

Apply according to the product instructions and allow sufficient dwell time for the leather to become evenly hydrated.

Do not rush directly from degreasing to drying. Proper hydration is an important preparation for the next stage of rejuvenation.

Step 5 — Rejuvenate: Fatliquor 5.0

Once the leather has been properly hydrated, replenish its depleted fat and oil content with Fatliquor 5.0.

Fatliquoring restores lubrication within the leather's fiber structure, helping improve:

  • Softness

  • Flexibility

  • Lubrication

  • Handle

  • Resistance to excessive stiffness during drying

Apply Fatliquor 5.0 according to the product instructions.

Allow the leather to absorb the treatment evenly before controlled drying.

Drying & Final Evaluation

Allow the leather to dry naturally under controlled conditions.

Avoid:

  • Direct heat

  • Hair dryers

  • Radiators

  • Hot sunlight

  • Rapid forced drying

After drying, reassess the leather.

Check for:

  • Improved flexibility

  • Reduced greasy or tacky feel

  • More uniform moisture response

  • Improved hand feel

  • Remaining contamination

  • Remaining dryness or stiffness

If necessary, repeat an appropriate stage rather than automatically repeating the entire process.

Nubuck & Suede

Nubuck and suede require the same principle of controlled wet processing, but their open nap requires additional care.

Avoid aggressive rubbing that can permanently alter the nap.

After drying, restore the surface texture with the appropriate suede or nubuck brush.

For heavily contaminated nap leather, work progressively rather than attempting to remove all contamination in a single aggressive treatment.

Hair-on-Hide

Hair-on-hide requires special attention to both the hide and the hair fiber.

Control moisture carefully and avoid excessive saturation of the hair side.

Where deep grease or body-oil contamination has penetrated the hide, use the absorbent-leather pathway while adapting the mechanical action to protect the hair.

Allow thorough natural drying and restore the hair after treatment.

The Two Treatment Pathways — Quick Reference

Present Condition Recommended System Objective
Non-absorbent, intact topcoat Degreaser 7.5 → Soft Rinse 5.0 Surface cleaning and finish preservation
Non-absorbent with surface tackiness Degreaser 7.5 → Soft Rinse 5.0 → Feel Conditioner if needed Refine surface feel
Absorbent finished leather due to topcoat wear Degreaser 2.2 → Rinse 3.0 → Test → Acidifier 2.0 if indicated → Hydrator 3.3 → Fatliquor 5.0 Deep cleaning and internal rejuvenation
Naturally absorbent leather Degreaser 2.2 → Rinse 3.0 → Test → Acidifier 2.0 if indicated → Hydrator 3.3 → Fatliquor 5.0 Deep cleaning and internal rejuvenation
Vachetta / unfinished veg-tan Absorbent pathway Controlled degreasing and structural rejuvenation
Nubuck / suede Absorbent pathway, with nap-specific handling Deep cleaning while preserving nap

The Guiding Principle

The treatment is determined by what the leather is doing now, not simply what it was originally.

A finished leather can become absorbent when its topcoat wears away.

An absorbent leather can therefore require a fundamentally different treatment from a leather whose topcoat remains intact.

Do not treat the finish and the leather structure as though they were the same thing.

Restore below when the leather structure is accessible.

Refine above when the topcoat remains intact.

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