Saddlery Sweat Burn Remover 1.0 (Sweat 1.0)

• Action:
• Use a horsehair detailing Brush 1 and leather Eraser 4
  
• Objective: 
• To eliminate dust, crystallized salts and dried sebum residue.
• Technique: 
• Brush vigorously in the direction of the grain, then against the grain. 

• Action: 
• Use very fine grit sandpaper (1000 to 2000).
• Objective: 
• To very slightly "open" the pores of the leather without scratching the grain.
• This allows the Sweat 1.0 to reach the oxidized tannins located just below the surface.
• Caution: 
• Do not sand until the leather becomes fuzzy.
• A light pass is enough to break down the film of sebum and salt.

• Action: 
• Before applying Sweat 1.0, wipe the entire surface evenly damp with Hydrator 3.3. 
• Why? 
• Leather that is already slightly damp accepts Sweat 1.0 treatment better and avoids drying "halos."
• The acidic solution will diffuse more evenly into the fibers.

 Summary of work order:

1. Brushing
2. Light sanding (if hard)
3. Degreasing (if greasy)
4. Humidification

 Would you like to know which application tool (brush, sponge or sprayer) provides the best control over sweat stains?

• Control: 
• It allows for precise measurement of the liquid quantity.
• It must be wrung out (damp, not dripping).
• Action: 
• By gently dabbing or rubbing in circular motions,
• The sponge helps the acid penetrate the fibers without saturating the core of the leather.
• Advantage: 
• It avoids drips that could create new dark spots on healthy areas.

• Seams: 
• Sweat and salts often accumulate in seam holes. 
• The brush allows the Sweat 1.0 to penetrate them.
• Note: 
• If the sweat stain is very well defined, the brush allows you to work only on the black area without touching the rest.
• Risk: 
• Be careful not to "foam" the solution too much, as the bubbles can leave micro-marks when drying.

• Disadvantages: 
• It creates a fine mist that can be inhaled unnecessary.
• Furthermore, it leaves droplets that can dry, creating light-colored "spots" on the leather.
• Single use: 
• It is only used to lightly dampen a large surface before wiping with a sponge.

 The "Golden Rule" of the Application

 Summary of the method

1. Moisten the entire panel with Hydrator 3.3 using Foam 2 brush or sponge .
2. Apply Sweat 1.0 with the wrung-out foam brush or sponge to the sweat stain, then wipe over the entire panel.
3. Use a soft hair Brush 1 on the seams if they remain black.
4. Leave for a few minutes (the black should lighten) before proceeding to neutralization .

 Would you like to know the maximum application time before rinsing to prevent Sweat 1.0 from weakening the fibers too much?

Visual observation: 

The action of Sweat 1.0 on black stain.

• Safety limit: 
• Never exceed 10 minutes of continuous contact.
• Beyond that, the extreme acidity begins to hydrolyze the collagen, which will irreversibly weaken the leather once dry (cardboard effect).
• Work in sections: 
• If you are treating a large item (such as a seat or jacket), work panel by panel.
• Apply the product, wait 3 minutes, then neutralize that panel before moving on to the next.
• This ensures complete control over the drying time.
• Signs that it's time to neutralize
• The black stain has disappeared or become noticeably lighter.
• The leather is starting to take on a slightly pinkish tint.
• Neutralize immediately if this happens.
• The surface begins to become sticky or "tacky".

 Transition procedure

As soon as the time is up or the stain has disappeared:

1. Wipe with a dry cloth to absorb any excess solution.
2. Immediately follow with Rinse 4.0 (pH 4.0) to restore proper leather acidity

 Pro Tip: 

• If the sweat stain is very old and deep,
• It's better to do two short 3-minute applications (with neutralization in between) rather than one long 10-minute application.
• This is much safer for the integrity of the leather.